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Dimestore Delibar might just be the easiest place to eat, drink and buy (some) groceries in Highland

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Dimestore Delibar owners Chris Fuentes (right) and Tim Dotson pose in the entryway, which also serves as a convenience store, at their new restaurant and bar in LoHi. (Josie Sexton, The Denver Post)

Good news for our bank accounts: The latest restaurant and bar to open in Denver’s Lower Highland isn’t a waitlisting, music-thumping kind of place where you can expect to spend an entire paycheck in a meal.

“Where your yearnin’s won’t exceed your earnin’s,” reads the back of the menu at Dimestore Delibar, which opened on Boulder Street late last week.

However that slogan may sound, the nostalgic spot actually comes from two Denver bar and restaurant pros who want to curb rising costs and competing trends in this area.

“The neighborhood really needs a value-focused spot,” co-owner and chef Tim Dotson told The Denver Post ahead of Dimestore’s opening. “There’s just nowhere to walk to and get something casual.”

Now, Dotson and partner Chris Fuentes are bringing $8-$13 sandwiches and plates, plus some groceries, candies and odds and ends to the building previously occupied by a Southern restaurant.

The completely redesigned space looks something like a modern-day Cheers, but crossed with a deli counter and convenience store. Stained glass decorates the bar and covers the light fixtures; used books and tchotchkes sit on every corner and shelf.

“I think about dime stores, old-school five-and-dimes and Woolworths,” Fuentes said, pointing to an eclectic mix of items for sale, from Japanese mayonnaise to drier sheets (things the owner says he would need).

So if the neighborhood needs a regular-old but also forward-thinking place, for food and drinks and more, Dimestore aims to be just that.

Dotson, however, has worked for Troy Guard’s Tag restaurants and last led the kitchen at The Family Jones Spirit House. Even when focusing on approachable menu items, he’s serving lamb gyro corndogs ($12) alongside meatloaf sandwiches ($12) and chicken-fried duck confit (the most expensive dish on the menu at $15) next to smoked ham spaetzle ($13).

He’ll also make his own chicken pate ($10) and sardines ($13). Customers can snack on small plates or go for a whole Reuben, roast beef and eggplant parm “dimeroll” on a focaccia loaf ($11-$13).

To drink, there’s Montucky Cold Snacks ($5) and Hofbrau Lagers ($7) among the local beers and cocktails.

Whether or not neighborhood folks will stop in to grab Pocky sticks and stock up on hot sauce in addition to eating and drinking at the Delibar is another question.

But Dotson and Fuentes are planning on sticking around, even as the city’s northside continues to change.

“We’re never going to have a set menu, whether it’s the back of the house (or front),” Fuentes said. “We’ll evolve to what the neighborhood needs.”

1575 Boulder St., 303-537-5323, 4-11 p.m. Monday, closed Tuesday, 4 p.m.-midnight Wednesday through Saturday and until 10 p.m. Sunday, dimestoredelibar.com

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